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Our Anniversary Meal - An Indepth Review

You can all wipe the beads of worry from your foreheads: I have managed to borrow a cable for my laptop so I am back in business.
Here than is the next thrilling installment of what Paul and I had for our anniversary dinner. The Boston Baked Bean post is to follow.
As I’ve noted before, I am not one for restaurant reviews. After all, one mans caviar is anothers Big Mac. I am also not in the position for reviewing food because:
a) I am overly critical at the best of times and
b) I am a supertaster so even the slightest over-salting of a dish can ruin the whole thing for me.
However, because this is an anniversary meal, and because Paul and I enjoy dissecting our daily events in minutiae, I am reviewing our meal and the restaurant just for you.
The Barn Brasserie is a converted barn (the name sort of gives that away), set deep in the rural Essex countryside. As with all converted barns, it exudes an air of the old meets the new. There is an off-to-the-side restaurant called the Fish Colony which specialises in local oysters from Mersea Island (they were on Rick Steins Food Heroes!) and Caviar. It has very high, vaulted ceilings from which hang huge wrought iron lights that resemble medieval torches. Make no mistake, if my house had 50 foot high ceilings, I would have lights like this too.
The staff are friendly and efficient . We were ushered to our seats (unfortunately right behind the cashier(Pauls comment: If you're like us and always feeling a bit out of place in these venues the staff can sense it like a dog senses fear. If you want good treatment, place your platinum card on the table before the meal begins)) and after we had ordered our food, each course arrived promptly, within five minutes of each table service.
As you saw yesterday, I ordered the Smoked Cods Roe with Toast for my starter, Paul had (on my insistence that we each have something different), Ducks Liver Parfait with Aubergine Caviar. The only complaint I could find about the starter was that I had too much roe OR too little toast. Still, it is a rare thing to complain about having too much food and not enough in this kind of restaurant.
Paul noted that his Parfait lacked punch and was ‘flabby’. Shame, because Paul adores Pate and I thought this would be a smoother and lighter. Personally, I can’t stand pate. I think it tastes (and smells) like cat food.
No sooner had our starter plates been whisked away than our mains arrived: Oyster Mushroom and Spinach Risotto Cakes for me, Bangers and Mash for Paul. Really, I have no idea why Paul would spend £10.00 on Sausage and Mash (Pauls note: because they looked good when I saw someone eating them the last time I was there!) when we have a hopper full of spuds and a freezer full of bangers, but there you go. He said the sausages were excellent and obviously ‘artisan’ made (which was later verified by the waitress) but the onion reduction was too much. I smelt the reduction as our plates were brought to the table and I silently hoped to myself that it wasn’t my food that smelt like that. Overly reduced sauces take on an almost molasses crossed with burntness aroma that I find highly unpleasant.
I ordered the Risotto Cakes because I adore Risotto but I have never eaten Risotto that hasn’t been made by myself and I also fancied the homemade potato crisps that went with it. OK, so it was a little heavily seasoned and Paul said it tasted too garlicky for his liking but at least there was two of the cakes and that was ample (particularly as I ordered chips on the side as well, it’s always best to err on the side of caution) even for someone with my appetite.
Obviously we made room for dessert though. What is the point of going out to eat at a fancy restaurant if you don’t order dessert?
The Coconut Creme Brule was heavenly. It had little deep fried banana crisps with it, that looked like overcooked potato chips but were really moreish (I was only given four). Paul ordered the ice cream (as always) and I demanded that we be given a sample of the chilli and mango sorbet. The waitress said that it was normally only served with the chocolate torte but she’d see what she could do. And, to my great surprise, she brought out a brandy snap basket filled with Banana Sorbet, Fig Ice Cream and Mango and Chilli Ice Cream! The Fig Ice Cream was as delicious as you could imagine it to be – they make all their own ice cream on site as it should be! They also had a rather outlandish sounding Liquorice Ice Cream which Paul and I had an intense discussion about: would it be jet black or greyish colour? We never did find out but I declared that I shall make some Liquorice Ice Cream myself and dye it with black food colouring. Imagine! Black Ice Cream! Forget virginal white ice cream, we all know that it’s filled with cream and eggs! It should be black, black as night and twice as mysterious!
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A Surprising Day!

So today was our fourth wedding anniversary and in anticipation of that, I had romantically prepared Boston Baked Beans and Ham Hocks. I know, Pork and Beans constitutes romance on a Byronic scale but calm thy beating hearts. I had had the hock in the fridge since Friday and it needed to be cooked. There was no room for it in the freezer (and I'm happy to see that other people have 'issues' with their anthropomorphous freezers too) and it had to be cooked.
So, romance wasn't foremost in my mind with my food preparation. I've never had Boston Baked beans though, so any new food experience is always special for me anyway.
I asked Paul how he felt about that being our anniversary meal and he said, non-commitantly "that will work" so the hocks and beans went in the oven and filled the kitchen with the molasses sweet smell.
In the meantime, I made this dish, meatloaf wrapped in puff pastry, for the latest Retro Recipe Challenge, this month Food of Love. The idea is that you cook a recipe that is no newer than 1980. As I love retro cookbooks and have a huge glut of them, this is no problem at all. Sure, it may seem about as romantic as Boston Baked Beans, but Paul loves Meatloaf and what more romantic way to celebrate love, than to cook your loved one food that they love?
I got the recipe from More Retro Diner (strictly published in current millennium but it is recipes from the 50s so hopefully this will count...) but I smartened things up a bit with a mushroom saute layer on the top (sort of like a Meatloaf Wellington in that case) and the puff pastry coat. It was very delicious and very cosy tasting.
RETRO MEATLOAF WITH A MODERN TWIST
Ingredients:
Pack of Frozen Puff Pastry, thawed, about 450g
500g Minced Beef
150g Pork Mince
1 stick Celery, finely chopped
Half a Carrot, finely chopped
Half a Red Pepper (or whatever colour pepper you have)
1 Onion, finely chopped
2 Cloves Garlic, finely crushed (ha, you thought I was going to say chopped!)
1 Egg
100g Breadcrumbs from any denomination of bread
1 Tablespoon Passata or Puree or Ketchup
Seasoning
Dash Worcestershire Sauce
2 tablespoons Chopped Parsley
1 Tablespoon Chopped Thyme
2-3 Hard Boiled Eggs
For the Mushroom Paste (optional):
150g Mushrooms, finely chopped
1 Spring Onion, chopped
2 Teaspoons Truffle Paste
METHOD:
Preheat Oven to 180c.
To make the meatloaf, saute the onion, garlic, carrot, pepper and celery until soft. Leave to cool.
In a large bowl, mix together the two minced meats, egg, breadcrumbs, tomato paste and herbs. Stir in the sauteed vegetables and mix well.
Season.
Pour half the mixture into a large loaf tin, lay the peeled hard boiled eggs on top and cover with the remaining mixture. Bake for about an hour or until the juices run clear when you insert a skewer. Leave to cool.
You may find that the meat leaches out a lot of juices. If these do not get absorbed back into the meat, pour them away.
Whilst the meatloaf is cooling, make the mushroom paste. Simply sweat down the spring onion with the mushrooms, some butter and seasoning for about 20 minutes. Leave to cool for a minute or two, then stir in the truffle paste.
Once the meatloaf has cooled, roll out the puff pastry until it looks like it will wrap comfortably around the meatloaf, it should be about 1/2" thick. Spread the mushroom paste over the centre of the pastry in a rectangle roughly the same size as the meatloaf.
Carefully place the meatloaf on top of the mushroom paste and fold the pastry up and around, forming a neat parcel. Seal the edges with some water.
Brush with egg wash and bake for 20-30 minutes or until golden brown.
Leave to cool for about 5 minutes before cutting into thick slices and serving with mashed potatoes, ketchup and peas!


Imagine my surprise this morning when our alarm goes off at 6.15am and Paul says to me "do you want to know what your anniversary present is" and I mumble incoherently, "tell me later." I am not a morning person.
"Well, I'm telling you anyway. I've phoned you boss, we both have today off work and we're going to the Barn Brasserie for lunch!"
Suddenly I'm not sleepy anymore! After profuse kisses, I loves yous and thank yous, we fell asleep until 10.30am and wake up feeling groggy. Not to worry. We're eating out today and I have the best husband in the world!
So, apologise for the brief post. It's our anniversary and the cable on my laptop isn't charging so I am working on 50% power with this post to upload and pictures to primp before it dies.
In the meantime, here are some pictures from the meal, more on that (and the ham hocks!) tomorrow...
My Starter: Smoked Cods Roe with Toast
















My Main Course: Oyster Mushroom and Spinach Risotto Cake
















And Dessert, the best course of all: Coconut Creme Brulee!
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A Sort of Mediterranean Dish

The freezer and I were in a stalemate situation. There we stood, eye to eye, me with a wealth of recipes that I was dying to cook and there he stood, packed solid with food, not willing to relinquish any of it without a struggle.
“Look” I said, “Either you give me the food or I’ll turn on the heaters and I mean it this time.”
He looked at me stoically. The freezer has heard my threats before. He knows I need him just as much as he needs me. I feed him food and he feeds me food.
Last night I was faced with the reverse predicament I was in two weeks ago. I had an over-abundance of food. My freezer could barely shut his aching-at-the seams drawers. What on earth was I going to cook for dinner?
Sometimes when you are working with the bare minimum of scraps (or leftovers), it is so much easier for you to be inventive. Give me a freezer packed with food, a fridge crammed with vegetables and cupboards stuffed with pasta, rice and seasonings, and my mind starts to boggle.

Last night, Paul and I shared a piece of Quiche that a family member had made and sat down trying to decide what to cook for dinner. “I’ve taken the Herrings out of the freezer, so fish is definitely on the menu but I’m thinking I want something to remind me of the summer with them. Perhaps a Salsa Verde? Oh and we have an Aubergine and two bulbs of Fennel that need using up” (actual conversation).
So, I dragged Paul away from the reruns of Battlestar Galactica because I needed his ‘make it up as you go along’ ethic in the kitchen. I have experienced his skill at 'making things up as you go along' and it is frighteningly effective.
“OK, you gut the fish” I handed Paul three semi frozen Herring that I hadn’t realised were not gutted until I groped around for the opening that wasn’t there.
I felt a twinge of sadness as I stared at the silver darlings, their large scales slipping off onto my fingers like contact lenses. I wondered what they had seen beneath the grey, murky depths of North Sea, swimming along like bolts of lightening.
Pretty soon though we were left with a sinkful of fish guts and three headless fish waiting for their heat treatment. I got to work butterflying them whilst Paul made one of his famous salsas. I had requested no chilli because whilst I wanted a Mediterranean feel, I didn’t want heat.
As usual, he didn’t let me down. Using a blood orange, one of those long red sweet peppers, some red onion and sea salt, he made a stunning red salsa that perfectly realised my eating requirements.
Meanwhile, I braised the Fennel in some butter and olive oil and threw some Ciabatta in the oven. Paul then set to work on the Aubergine, cutting into thin slithers which were fried, then combined with some Mozzarella, Vine Tomatoes, some preserved Artichoke Hearts for good measure and some seasoning.
What you see before you is last night’s supper, completely ad libbed, not entirely successful but a lot of fun to prepare. The fish was pan fried in a little oil until it curled up around the edges. The tasty, tiny brown fillets were then served on top of the braised Fennel (which was deliciously and delicately medicinal – all thoughts of Absinthe have nearly been obliterated from my memory) with the Ciabatta, some of the Red Salsa and the Aubergine Salad (which I didn’t like because it was too oily, but that particular affectation will plague the poor Aubergine until its dying day).
It tasted a little like the Mediterranean at our dining table last night, which was just right for the sub-zero temperatures outside. And Paul got to see the end of Battlestar Galactica after all.
As for the freezer? Well, he has a Ham Hock and Minced Beef extraction coming to him soon...very soon.
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Weekend Herb Blogging

Or, how I made a dish and wasn't brave enough to try it.
Consider this cowardice on my part, or consider your own personal reaction to raw egg yolk. Perhaps you don't like anchovies, beetroot, parsley or raw onion. If so, this dish isn't for you.
Actually, this is a dish of great beauty but in a spiky Egon Schiele way, rather than a voluptuous Dante Rossetti way. After spying it in a Tamasin Day-Lewis book and having a curiosity about it ever since, I decided to prepare it for this weekends Weekend Herb Blogging being hosted this month by Ulrike at Kuchenlatein.
This is an event that I really enjoy participating in because I am not a big meat eater but I find some vegetarian food to be dull so this gives me the opportunity to experiment in the kitchen on a quiet Sunday afternoon AND I get to pinch ideas from other people too!
So, as I mentioned, this dish combines beetroot, that delicate, sweet root vegetable that stains your fingers deep pink, freshly chopped parsley for it's clean, grassy taste, raw onion for a hot taste and gherkins for their sour tartness. The salt element is provided by chopped anchovies and the whole dish is - literally - bound together with a raw egg yolk. The dish is a Swedish delicacy called Sologa or 'Suns Eye'. It also goes by the name of Birds Nest, which presumably represents the concentric circles of the various ingredients, and the yolk representing the egg or baby bird.
This is not a dish for the faint hearted, nor is it for the impatient or heavy handed. It took me well over 20 minutes to make one of these little platefuls, which constitutes no more than four or five mouthfuls (it is supposed to be served as an appetiser or part of a smorgasbord). However, further investigation of the dish revealed that it would be wise to use 5 glasses or cooking rings, all of increasing diameter, to make this quickly. I can reinstate that this would, indeed, be a good idea.
My husband, he of Swedish/German heritage, enjoyed this dish greatly. He mixed it all up and ate atop Rye Bread, declaring that the egg yolk enhanced and combined the complexity of the other ingredients. My husband grew up eating Swedish food and he has somewhat of the Swedish demeanour, so he didn't even flinch at the egg yolk. I, on the other hand, a lily livered Brit who was brought up in a household that wouldn't even eat lamb or duck, much less raw egg yolk, just couldn't bring myself to try it. However, as a talking point for a (very) small dinner party, it certainly is a lovely dish to serve, and the more adventurous guests would also relish the unique flavour.
SOLOGA 'Sun's Eye' serves 1 person
Ingredients:
1 Egg Yolk
4 Cornichons, drained, chopped into miniscule chunks
3 Anchovies, drained, chopped into - you guessed it - miniscule chunks
1-2 Tablespoons White Onion, ditto
Half a small globe of pickled beetroot, ditto
2 Tablespoons finely Chopped Parsley
METHOD:
Starting with the anchovies, arrange all the ingredients in ever increasing circles, leaving a hole in the middle for the yolk to be carefully dropped into once ready to serve.
Serve with Rye Bread or Toast.
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More Fun In The Kitchen With A Deep Fat Fryer

Or how I managed to get a burnt finger but a happy stomach.
After consoling myself with the fact that I am not the only big baby in the kitchen when it comes to deep frying food, I once again swallowed my not inconceivable mistrust of hot oil and made Beignets Souffles with Cinnamon Sugar. Sounds complex? Actually not at all. The souffle element is not a souffle as we know it, a precarious piece of food art involving egg whites and and a large degree of trust in your oven. Instead, this recipe just involves making a Choux Pastry (simple enough but you do get a bit of a workout beating the dough) and dropping little balls of the choux into hot fat. They are then coated in the cinnamon sugar and consumed with the knowledge that you are eating something deep fried with no nutritional content whatsoever. To that end, I served mine with fresh pineapple although the original recipe, taken from Rick Stein's Food Heroes, has chocolate sauce drizzled over the little puffs.
I'll come clean. The only reason I didn't make the chocolate sauce was not health related: I simply forgot the chocolate. Paul predictably suggested that they would have been best served with vanilla ice cream. Is there nothing this man wouldn't have a la mode?
The first picture is what we shall refer to as the 'art' shot. I think I was visibly trembling with excitement at the thought of eating sugar coated deep fried dough balls and so I got camera wobble. And for once, the camera wobble looks quite attractive.
Here is what they actually look like, along with a recipe for the Beignets Souffles.
BEIGNETS SOUFFLES WITH CINNAMON SUGAR AND PINEAPPLE serves easily 5 or 6
Ingredients:
75g Butter
225ml Cold Water
95g Sifted Plain Flour
3 Large Eggs, beaten
Vegetable Oil for Deep Frying
50g Caster Sugar (I think that Vanilla sugar would be pretty wonderful too)
3/4 Teaspoon Cinnamon
METHOD:
In a large saucepan, melt the butter in the water over a low heat.
Once melted, bring to the boil and sift in the flour, beating madly until the mixture coheres and starts to pull away from the sides of the saucepan.
Leave to cool for a couple of minutes.
Gradually beat in the eggs until the mixture is glossy and thick. This will take some arm work and the mixture will resemble clumpy macaroni cheese for a few seconds but it will come together with a little patience.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a deep saucepan until it reaches 190c on a thermometer. I didn't have a thermometer so had to use instinct, which is why some of the second batch got a bit too browned.
Once the oil is hot, drop in teaspoonfuls of the mixture, no more than 6 in a large pan.
Now watch the fun. They must be cooked for 5 minutes. This seems like a long while because they will start to turn golden brown quite quickly. However, you will see that at least once throughout the cooking period, maybe half way through, they will split open and expand, seemingly growing second and third stomachs (if only we had that option). They will double, triple, quadruple in size so you will need to do several batches.
After five minutes, remove them from the heat using a slotted spoon and drain briefly on some kitchen paper. Keep them warm in a low oven whilst you finish off the mixture.
To make the sugar, simply mix the sugar with the cinnamon. Pour the sugar mixture into a shallow dish and roll the warmed beignets souffles until well coated.
Serve with some fresh pineapple or chocolate sauce, or, I suppose, Ice Cream.
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The Forgotten Dishes

You know those days when you shuffle into the kitchen and you can just about manage to pour some cereal into a bowl? Or those even worse days when you demand that your other half shuffles into the kitchen and make you a bowl of cereal? Sometimes though you have the wherewithal the cook but then you sit in front of the computer screen with absolutely no inspiration at all. All the words seem like a riddle, but not a clever Lewis Carroll riddle, more like a "why on earth am I mindlessly watching E News?" riddle. And that's if you're lucky to churn anything out at all. Perhaps it's just me that suffers from that...if so, forget I ever said anything.
Anyway, whilst flipping through my My Pictures file, originally titled, rather inspiredly 'Blog', I found lots of pictures of food that I had never written about. And the food was good too! Most of the time anyway. So, I thought I would share with you the food that didn't make it. The food that deserved to be given the spotlight alongside Blueberry Loaf Cake and Courgette Fritters but just didn't. These are the forgotten dishes:

Cabbage Torte. A recipe I cooked only last week or so, from a recent issue of Gourmet Magazine. It was supposed to be an unusual ingredient of the week because it used Cavolo Nero,
an Italian breed of cabbage that I have been looking for for ages. As I recall, the dish comprised of some egg tagliatelli, that was mixed up with beaten eggs, ricotta cheese, Taleggio cheese and the cooked, chopped Cavolo Nero, then poured into a cake tin and baked in the oven until golden brown. To be honest, it wasn't that great; I found it to be a little too eggy and not cheesy enough. I also felt that it was probably a waste of my Cavolo Nero which I had waited so long to get.

Paneer Curry
Now this did rock my world in a way that only a squeaky flavourless fried cheese can. I love Paneer. I love it's texture, I love the flavour it takes on when fried and I love how it is a perfect bland foil to a spicy sauce. I also appreciate its affinity with the frozen pea.
This recipe was cooked only Tuesday this week, when we were trying to clear some things out of the cupboard and use up a rapidly wilting bunch of Coriander. The recipe was taken from Keith Floyds Curries (CLICK HERE PLEASE!!) book but I prefer Nigella Lawsons version in Feast which packs more of a punch. We served it with Prawn Cakes (see below).

Chicken a la Cider
Now this was a good dish but perhaps I felt I couldn't give it the write up that it deserved. I took this from the latest issue of Fine Cooking and it was my variation of Poulet au Vinaigre, featured in their excellent Bistro Special. How did I make it different, I hear you cry? Well, I didn't have the required Champagne Vinegar, nor Dry White Wine so I used Cider Vinegar and some of my very special Somerset Pomona from the Cider Brandy Company. I added some sauteed mushrooms and produced a sort of Coq au Pommes, if you will. This dish is particularly notable for it's use of Tarragon, a herb hitherto unseen in the Erickson kitchen due to an all encompassingly bad experience with a bottle of Absinthe. We served it with Puy Lentils with Kielbasa Sausage (see below).

Mexican Flan
The dessert element of our much lauded Mexican Fiesta.
For now, gaze upon the golden be-topped glory that was Mexican Flan, an eggy, vanilla, cinnamon scented custard topped with a caster sugar sauce (surely a miracle of culinary science how it goes from sugar to hard caramel to this liquified sauce). 3 out of 4 dinner party grateful guests gave it the thumbs up. The other one had ice cream. And shots of tequilla. Lots and lots of tequilla.

Lentils with Kielbasa
This was ths side dish served with aforementioned Chicken with Cider or Coq au Pommes. Puy Lentils simmered with herbs and garlic until tender. The Kielbasa sausage sliced up and rapidly boiled in some seasoned red wine until thickened and reduced, then the two are put together. I love Puy Lentils, the sausage not so much. But I love the Lentils. I can eat them straight from the pan (cooked of course). I love Lentils. Did I mention that?

Prawn Cakes
My attempt at an Asian classic, Thai Prawn Cakes. I made this recipe up as I went along, utilising elements from various online and offline sources. In the end, the ingredients, whizzed up in my food processor, were prawns, fresh coriander, some fresh ginger, a clove or two of garlic, some Nam Pla, an egg, a fresh Chilli and an Onion. Oh and the juice from a lime. I think I may have added some salt too which meant that the finished dish was a wee bit too salty but Paul said they were great the next day.

Chocolate Hazelnut Cake
A really old one this, from last Summer (ah, how I long for warm summer days again), Wholemeal Chocolate Cake from a Nigel Slater Cake, who had adapted it from a Tamasin Day-Lewis recipe. It had a good heritage yet I remember it being slightly dry in texture. The 'instant' icing was chopped hazelnuts and chocolate sprinkled on the cake before it goes in the oven.



Braised Red Cabbage and Sausages with Smashed Potatoes
I had to look twice at this dish to remember what it was. Then I remembered, braised red cabbage with sausages, taken from a UK food magazine, probably Good Food, served with smashed potatoes, a recipe from another food magazine, this time Fine Cooking.
The only auspicious thing about this dish was the potatoes, they were the Shetland Black Potatoes that I blogged about, way back in early December. They lose their black colour when cooked, as you can see here which is a shame but the flavour is great, as potatoes used to taste. This is the potato dish that got me into eating potato skins, hithertofore, I had never touched the skin. Basically the potatoes are boiled whole and in their skins, left to cool and then squashed flat with the palm of your hand, drizzled with oil and baked in the oven until they come out resembling some sort of flattened cockroach. They taste great in spite of the nauseating analogy. The braised cabbage and sausage was nothing to blog home about.

So, I hope you enjoyed this glimpse into the lost foods of the Erickson household. This doesn't even include stuff that wasn't photographed or that was just lost fullstop. Luckily that doesn't happen too often. As for the weekend, well, to jump on the bandwagon, I got Baking From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan, that so many people have been writing about. It's a big book and one that I will pouring over all weekend. I also added Rick Stein's Food Heroes and Tartine by Elisabeth Prueitt (beautiful cover). And in case I get fed up of reading about food or cooking food, I also bought a game for my Nintendo DS: Cookin' Mama. Yes, I really am that juvenile.
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Two Cakes!

CAKE 1
Ah, the food blogger. By nature a generous person. One who makes plateful of food after plateful of food, shares their experiences with other food bloggers and sometimes even ventures away from the kitchen or computer to meet other bloggers.
I haven’t actually yet met another food blogger in the flesh (that I know about) but I have had the pleasure of doing the odd food parcel swap (reaching as far away as Australia and Singapore) which is always great fun and most recently a cake swap with the wondrous Kathryn over at Kathryn Cooks with Jamie. If you haven’t already checked out her blog, you should. Sure, people cooking their way through other peoples cookbooks are ten a penny, but this one is really different. She is attacking Jamie Olivers latest book with a real passion and is working her way through it with such a determination, despite having toothache AND students to deal with, and I just know that she will reach the end!
If you enjoyed Julie/Julia Project, then you will enjoy Kathryns blog which is intelligently written and features great photos, but with a very British slant (because, after all, we are British).
Anyway, Kathryn and I decided to do a cake swap but I changed my mind and wanted to make bread for reasons mentioned in the previous post (lack of butter etc) so I made the Olivetta Loaf. I received Kathryns offering on Tuesday, which was a delicious Chocolate Loaf Cake. My husband loves Loaf Cakes as they remind him of his childhood so he dove straight into Kathryns cake, polishing off two slices with nary a grumble nor a groan. He marvelled at the deep chocolate flavour and how well it worked with Ben and Jerrys Fossil Fuel Ice Cream. Me, I think that ice cream on cake is a bit of a cardinal sin but then I come from the country of custard and whipped cream. I hope that Kathryn posts the recipe for this delicious cake, which comes from a Norwegian recipe, so I can replicate it at home.

CAKE 2
Paul doesn’t usually like my cakes too much which is why don’t I make them very often. He tells me that he’s “not a cake person” as he tucks into cream horns and filled donuts. I tricked him last night though.
I relented and baked a cake that has been eyeing me up for quite a while, whispering to me “Bake Me, Bake Me, Bake ME!” It is featured on the cover of this months BBC Good Food Magazine (one of Britains only decent food magazines, why can’t we have such great publications as Saveur over here?): A Marmalade and Poppy Seed Loaf Cake.
For once I had everything in the cupboard required. Well, a variation of everything.
The original recipe featured a marmalade flavoured loaf tin, spiked with toasted poppy seeds and sharpened up with some natural yogurt, glazed with melted marmalade. Ok. So this sounds like a good way to use up my bag of Seville Oranges. They are only in season for a short while and I had to have them.
I try to take advantage of seasonal produce when I can and I have been waiting 10 months for the Seville Oranges to triumphantly re-enter the supermarkets. Actually, it wasn’t very triumphant at all. They were just in a big dumpster, next to all the other oranges, with a big note on them “For Cooking Purposes Only” which is enough to put anybody off them. I took a Seville Orange into work for my orange eating colleagues to try (we are a cloistered lot around these parts) and most of them could only just manage one segment each. I am not an orange eater but I tried a tiny bit and found it left me with a tingly tongue for the rest of the day. I guess there was something in the “For Cooking Purposes Only” sign.
So, our main course in the oven (lemon potatoes with cod, delicious the first time I had it, but the this time I stuck to the original recipe, used two lemons instead of one and found it much too tart – still, I am a supertaster and find sour things a bit hard to take sometimes), I set to work on the cake.
This is possibly the easiest cake in the world and lends itself to many variations. The marmalade is melted in a pan then beaten with the yogurt (I used Buttermilk though, I am not a yogurt eater, see above). The rest of the ingredients, which includes flour, butter, eggs, orange zest, poppy seeds and sugar are all beaten in a large bowl with an electric whisk. Then the yogurt/marmalade mixture is beaten in. To ring the changes, I sprinkled a small punnet of blueberries on the top. Well, I know that oranges and blueberries have a natural affinity, a kind of cold weather fruit meets warm weather fruit affinity.
The whole thing is then slung in the oven (I use the term ‘slung’ to indicate the laissez-faire attitude towards this simple cake) and baked for about an hour.
You must leave it to cool because it is a very moist, tender cake that is quite delicate when hot but becomes emboldened when cold(ened) and is find to cut into huge slices. So, to recap, the changes I made were this: no marmalade glaze, I used Plain Flour instead of Self-Raising (I don’t use SR Flour), I didn’t toast the Poppy Seeds, I used Buttermilk instead of Yogurt and added the Piece de Resistance: the speckled blueberry topping (which actually stains the cake blue top and bottom because some of the sink during the cooking process).
Because I feel that I have turned this recipe around and made it my sort of own, here then is my variation. If you want to make the original, I suggest you buy the March Issue of Good Food Magazine!
MARMALADE AND BLUEBERRY LOAF CAKE
Ingredients:
3 Tablespoons Marmalade (for those of you who can’t get Marmalade, you could use the juice of 3 or 4 oranges, preferably
Seville for that sharp taste, boiled rapidly until thickened)
Juice of a Seville (or other) Orange
150g Buttermilk or Natural Yogurt
175g Unsalted Butter, softened
175g Unrefined Caster Sugar (or just regular if you can’t get unrefined)
200g Plain Flour
1 Teaspoon Baking Powder
½ Teaspoon Bicarbonate of Soda
3 Eggs
Zest of One Orange (taken from one of those that you used above)
2 Teaspoons Poppy Seeds
Small Punnet Blueberries (about 250g), optional.
METHOD:
Preheat the oven to 160c.
In a small saucepan gently heat the marmalade with the juice of the orange until it liquifies. Remove from the heat and beat in the buttermilk or yogurt. If you are using fresh orange juice instead of marmalade, let it boil rapidly for a minute or two to thicken and reduce it, then beat in the yogurt/buttermilk. Leave to cool.
Using an electric whisk, beat together all the other ingredients in a large bowl until smooth. This should just take a minute or two. Quickly beat in the orange/buttermilk mixture.
Pour into a greased and lined loaf tin.
Sprinkle over the blueberries if using.
Bake for about an hour or until a skewer comes out fairly clean (this is a moist cake so it won’t be as clean as say, a chocolate cake).
Leave to cool for 10 minutes, gently remove from the tin and leave to cool completely on a cooling rack.
Enjoy as it is or with cream, custard or, as my husband predictably suggests, ice cream!
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